So, the first day we were out here, we checked the place out, had amazing fish and chips at big daddy's fish fry.
Got a skimboard and tried it out. We weren't that good, but its mostly because we were new at it and we didn't have any wax on the board to keep us on. Had a big wipe out with the board and landed in the very cold ocean, no wet suit at that point. Tony also did the same thing but kinda did a face plant.
Second day out here, Tony was determined to try surfing, so we got lessons for 2 days and equipment and off we went. 2 days of surfing is hard work if you haven't done it before. We went to
Pacific Surf School for the "Experience Package".
The instructors were awesome, ours was a long blonde haired aussie I think his name was Jeremy. He told us how to get to the "Car park" at the beach, which Tony then thought of Aria and thought it was awesome.
(Aria might be sighing right now).
So first, putting on a wet suit. We got our suites, they were wet and dripping. I was thinking to myself, "How the heck are you gonna get on a wet skin tight suit when its hard enough to get wet regular clothes off and on???"
Well, for me it was like putting on a wet pair of panty hose that were 2 times too small. I could barely get the legs on and had to keep sinching them up so I could get my arms and the rest of me in. I sat in the car struggling for forever, Tony had to help me pull on the suit. He didn't as bad a problem as me, his was looser than mine.
Those suits leave nothing to the imagination by the way.
We learned all about rip tides and under tows and how not to get sucked out to sea. I had been in the water up to my knees the day before and that aint warm water, so I was really skeptical that these suits would work. Everyone was walking into the water and I started too, wincing and just waiting for the shock of the cold to hit me. THOSE SUITS ARE MAGICAL!!! I didn't feel a thing walking in, it was like I could feel nothing. It was wet nothingness that I was walking into.
First days waves were ok, not too big, perfect in my mind for learning. Second day, awesome high waves. The board outside the parks said "Extreme" waves and all the surfers were out on the beach. I wiped out hard a bunch of times. Had my board hit me on the head pretty hard.
There was another time where I was trying to get up on my board, and I did, and it flipped (cause I was not standing in the center of the board) and the fin hit me in my inner thigh and man that hurt.
(These are Tony's chapped red and somewhat bleeding hands from our extreme few days)
Tony made me realize that it would have been a lot worse had I not been wearing the magical wet suit. I have pretty bad bruises but I cant imagine what would have happened without the thick wetsuit.
Surfing worked muscles that I didnt know I had. Man, if I took up surfing I would have awesome abs and amazing upper body strength.
